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Climber Alex Honnold on Climbing Culture in Yosemite

by:COSCO     2019-08-10
For climbers, no place is more representative of the United States than Yosemite.
The climbing hero from ufeng joinnard to Lynn Hill gritted his teeth on huge walls and round tops.
Its towering granite faces and diving valleys are the holy land of dirty climbers, attracting the sweat and passion of the best people in the world, and forming a revolutionary hard Han and female, dream
This fall, on a scroll Rock Tour, send the sender films Valley Uprising to bring vitality to the legend of 90-Yosemite
Paint a colorful cultural portrait of the valley.
Alex Honnold is one of the current visionaries of yosemite Lodge, who named himself for the big wall of yosemite Lodge for free, no ropes, no seat belts, only hiking shoes
He is the only one who knows the Triple Crown, nose and semi-dome of the Soro Yosemite Watkins mountain, and he does it in less than 24 hours
We talked to Honnold about the wild knowledge of Yosemite in our 60 s, the future of Yosemite climbing, and his expectations for the Valley Uprising.
Adventure: How would you describe the current generation of Yosemite climbers, like Yvon Chouinard, Royal Robins, Jim Bridwell et al, compared to previous generations?
Did some of the wildness between us and those early climbers disappear?
Alex Honnold: Well, people like Royal robinscanâ are really described as wild animals, even though his climb is really far-sighted.
But his way of life is clean.
I feel that the climbers of the current generation are more on his line than on Warren Harding/Jim briddwell\'s line, which means there is a lot less substance and alcohol abuse, but there are still a lot of hard climbing.
I think the times have changed to some extent.
The days of uninterrupted psychedelic and free love have passed.
I don\'t think it has much impact on rock climbing, just the way of life.
What is the first memory you want to climb in Yosemite?
I don\'t actually know.
I used to camp in Yosemite when I was a child, so I always enjoyed hanging out and hiking there.
I have known all the legends of Yosemite climbers since I grew up in the gym.
But I really don\'t know when I start really thinking about going there to climb the mountain, which is always an assumption for me.
A: In the scene of Yosemite climbing, do you have any personal heroes or characters that you particularly admire?
AH: When I grew up, I really respected Peter Croft and John Bazar for their unemployed merits.
As I grew older, I gradually turned to people like Dean Porter and Tommy Caldwell.
Now that I have the pleasure of climbing the mountain with Tommy, I have to say that I am more impressed with what he has done in Yosemite.
I still feel very encouraging.
A: Is there any special expectation for the upstream valley?
AH: Everything!
No, seriously, I\'m very excited to see the whole story of Yosemite unfold in a modern style.
I \'ve seen a big part of it and I really enjoy the dynamism they bring to the golden age.
Black and white photos in their 50 s and 60 s don\'t often create such exciting stories.
A: It seems difficult for professional climbers to survive in the Valley because of its rules and camping restrictions.
How do you adapt to all this?
AH: It\'s true in a way, but as long as you follow the rules and don\'t do anything illegal, you can climb as long as you want.
For me, this means leaving the park to sleep at night, usually going to the nearest two towns, Foresta or El Portal.
Too bad, the living conditions there are not easy, but it is a very small price for getting into some of the best walls in the world.
A: upstream valley-
Director Nick Rosen said that although people like you are now paid for climbing, climbing is still more artistic than money.
Do you feel like you have seen the dirty cultural changes of Yosemite climbing in your lifetime?
AH: I feel like I \'ve seen a little change in the Valley scene over the last seven years, but some of them may have more to do with the general demographic change in the climb.
I don\'t know if this is true, but now it seems that there are more people who like to climb mountains and more people on weekends --
Warrior climbers from the Bay Area and the Central Valley.
This, coupled with the camping accommodation restrictions and all the general hassle in the valley, seems to have diluted the dirty scene a bit.
However, it is difficult for me to say for sure, because at the end of October, when all the tourists were gone and the conditions were getting colder, there seemed to be only some dirty climbers left in the park.
A: The History of Yosemite climbing is the story of a person who exists on the edge.
How do you think the media attention your climb received will affect the American public\'s view of the climb?
I honestly don\'t know, I try not to worry too much.
Maybe everyone has a wrong idea of what climbing is.
Or maybe it inspires them to learn more or to climb the mountain.
But I have been climbing the mountain all the time.
I am not too worried if the public does not understand.
You can climb around the world, but continue to return to Yosemite.
What\'s special about those big granite walls?
What brings you back?
AH: part of it is very close to home;
My family lives three hours away.
But when you see good Rocks, a lot of climbing, an overall package that is very easy to reach and relatively easy to live, Yosemite does have the best walls in the world.
In most parts of the world, a massive expedition is needed to climb good rocks.
In Yosemite, you can eat pizza after a day\'s climb.
What is the future of Yosemite rock climbing?
I don\'t know.
Harder routes, bigger links, faster times, all the good things.
They are not allowed to fly in the park like a paraglider or base jump, thus eliminating some factors that may affect the future of climate in other regions.
Just as Tommy liberated the Dawn Wall, it would be a very futuristic thing. Weâx80x99ll see.
What do you think every climber should do in Yosemite?
AH: the nose on the El hat is a must
Do it for anyone who is capable.
My personal favorite is probably the Serenity/Yesterday\'s sons, just climbing the brilliant cracks at a very good moderate angle.
For ordinary tourists, I feel like everyone should hike on the semi-dome and walk on the panoramic trail.
It may be one of the most scenic trails in the world.
Read our interview with co-
Director Nick Rosen talks about the Golden Valley Uprising
Read our interview with co-
Director Nick Rosen talks about the Golden Valley Uprising
Read our interview with co-
Director Nick Rosen talks about the Golden Valley Uprising
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